Tradewinds Sailing Blog

Happy April Fools Day!

Despite the temptation to make up a story for today (GPS calibrated for northern hemisphere, so I’ve been going the wrong way, now near Antarctica, etc.), I decided to just do a regular report. So you’ll have imagine something clever and witty, and pretend I wrote it.

Yesterday was interesting, and ultimately very progressive, as it was a 200-mile day. It started out normal enough, but by mid-morning (9am on the clock here), one of those massive 10-mile wide squalls was approaching. It didn’t bring much wind, but it poured rain for an hour, which was welcome, as the boat was getting pretty salty crusty and was due for a good cleaning.

After the squall, there was a huge wind hole, with nothing in it. OK fine, time to turn on the engine for an hour or two, charge up the batteries and cool down the fridge, which I did.

When the wind filled back in, it was more easterly, which is good for me, as it makes for a stable broad reach, instead of the rocky-rolly dead downwind. All was going fast and well, until I noticed 2 rips in the mainsail, where it rubs on the spreader tips. One was about 3″, the other 8″. Hmmm, don’t want that to get worse, so down came the main, and out came the sticky-back repair tape, which seems to be working fine.

According to the odometer, I am halfway to Panama, from a nautical miles standpoint. I expect the second half to be a bit faster, though, so in reality I am already beyond halfway there.

Today is starting out a bit overcast, which is O.K., as being just 150 miles from the equator, it’s plenty warm all the time.

4/1  8am  2.30S  39.02W   2761nm gone,  2719nm to go.

I am there. Finally. Fair winds and following seas, and a current that goes with me, not against me. And it feels nice…

I was reflecting on the trip down to Buenos Aires last year, as I am using the same set of charts to mark my progress. In some stretches, it was quick both ways, due to the different weather of the seasons. But in other places, it was very quick one way, and very slow the other. I wish I had my actual log sheets, to compare conditions. What I now observe as fair winds and following seas and pleasant, last year was probably “more cursed wind on the nose, current against me, pounding in the *$#%! seas!” . How many times am I going to learn that lesson, do you suppose?

As I now travel more west than north, my landmarks up ahead are crossing the equator, and passing through the ITCZ (Inter-tropical convergence zone), also called the doldrums, which should lie around 3 degrees north. After that, entering the Caribbean sea, and then Panama.

3/31 8am   4.14 S   36.17 W    2562nm gone,  2914nm to go

I have enough of going east, and I don’t want to do it anymore. At least not for a long while. I am at 34 degrees west longitude, and heading due north until tonight, then I finally turn left and point my nose to Trinidad, just 2000nm away.

Looking at the numbers, I realize that I will likely go to longitude 140 west, before angling back to San Francisco, which is at 122 west. Which means I will sail over 100 degrees of longitude- more than 1/4 of the planet!

Thankfully, I started tasting the trade winds yesterday, a steady 15 to 20 knots from the southeast, and have been rollicking along north at boat-speeds of 8 to 10 knots, making the miles tick away. It made the last 24-hour run 184nm, the best since the first day out of Uruguay. I should start getting favorable current in a day or two, after turning left, and that will help, too, although by going more downwind my boat speed will be a bit lower.

While relaxing in the cockpit last night, I heard a strange “splot” noise, very close. I looked over, and within reach from me was a big fat flying fish- a good 12 inches long, one of the largest I’ve seen. I ran inside to get the camera, but by the time I came back out he had already wriggled away. So no fried fish for breakfast. Ah well, the one that got away…

3/30 8am   6.40S  34.46W   2380nm gone,  3101nm to go

Sometimes I think I can almost smell them. The trade winds, that is. But of course that’s not true. I just know that they are close, maybe a day or two away, and then hopefully the wind will stay aft of the beam, and the seas and current will go with me.

Until then, I continue on a close-to-beam reach, with the wind varying between 50 and 80 degrees apparent. Fortunately, the winds are mild, typically 8-12 knots, and the seas are an easy 2 to 4 feet.

Last night was relaxing, thankfully, with no squalls at all. I guess Neptune decided to mess with someone else for a change, and I break into the single-digit latitudes…

3/29  8am  9.30S  35.27W   2196nm gone,  3292nm to go

Last night was relaxing, thankfully, with no squalls at all. I guess Neptune decided to mess with someone else for a change, and I break into the single-digit latitudes…

It’s been 2 weeks now, that I’ve been sailing north and east. I am just about done with the east part, too, thankfully. I’ve made good progress, too, covering 23 degrees of latitude so far. That’s equivalent to going from San Francisco to Guatemala.

I am very much into the tropics, as the thermometer never goes below 80 anymore, not even at night. And the tropical squalls really seem to get fired up some nights, like last night. I think it was baby squall training night or something. There seemed to be an endless parade of small but strong squalls passing through, bumping the 10 knot wind to 25 in an instant, dumping a bucket of water on me, then leaving a wind hole with nothing for 15 minutes. Lather, rinse, repeat. Or maybe it was just ol’ King Neptune, using me for some amusement…

3/28  8am  11.22S  37.10W   2041nm gone, 3443nm to go

I passed Salvador this morning, 13 days after departing near Buenos Aires. And last year, when sailing southbound, it also took 13 days to go from Salvador to Buenos Aires. So I see that as a good thing, because the southbound route has the benefit of some favorable current and typically more favorable winds.

Speaking of current, I am fighting it off and on. The main trade wind thing from South Africa also drives current, and when it hits the big corner of Brazil it splits, with some continuing NW along the top of South America, and some curling down along the coast of Brazil. It is that curling down one that I fight. For a while yesterday, I was seeing 2 knots of adverse current, but I was able to get inshore enough to get out of it, so it only hampered me for a few hours.

I am very much looking forward to getting with the good current after passing Natal, at the corner. I remember weeks of fighting it all the way from Trinidad last year, so this time it should be a boost.

Last night brought my first good tropical downpour. A real gusher, this squall was. But it was good, as there was a lot of salt that needed to be rinsed off. Nice clean boat today…

3/27  8am   13.00S  38.32W  1901nm gone, 3570nm to go

Sunday, a day of worship? For many it is. Which got me to thinking about the Egyptians, and their worship of the sun god Ra. And then I thought about how every day out here, not just Sunday, I make a point of watching the sunrise and the sunset. It’s pretty, and I like the colors and variety, and the way the light changes, and how it marks time for me on my daily routine. Paying tribute twice a day? Kinda sounds like worship…

Another big score for my random walks this morning. Up near the bow, I found a black washer on deck. Hmmm. okay, a more thorough look around. Ah ha! about 20 feet back, wedged behind a stanchion, is a bolt. That means I must have a screw loose. Well, you already knew that, but now the boat has a screw loose somewhere, too. Based on the size of the nut, it didn’t take long to figure out it came from the forestay assembly under the jib furler.

I am amazed on several levels. First, that I found the parts, and they hadn’t washed overboard. Second, that a bolt and nut is used anywhere on the forestay assembly, as opposed to more secure kotter pins. Third, that this thing somehow worked itself loose. I guess running downwind the pressure comes off the forestay, and repeated pitching could cause the forestay to slacken going forward, then tighten coming back, essentially unscrewing something micron by micron. One more thing to pay attention to, I guess…

I am happily back in better winds and seas, and making good progress again. With luck, another 4 or 5 days may see me reach the SE trade winds, stop going east, and start to turn the big corner of Brazil.

3/26  8am   15.25S  38.52W   1748nm gone,  3700nm to go

That’s what happened yesterday. There were just too many isobar lines in one place. And that place was right where I happened to be. Instead of the 15 knots forecast, I saw a steady 25 knots with gusts to 30, right on my nose, for about 18 hours. So I didn’t make a lot of progress, but I kept the boat moving. And today dawned much milder, so life is good again.

Vitoria, where I had stopped briefly, claims to be the second largest ore port in the world. I guess they must have piles of it everywhere, and when the wind blows, the whole town gets covered, including boats in the marina.

All day yesterday I kept tracking black footprints everywhere, and there was a fine grey dust on everything. But conditions were a bit too bumpy for a good cleaning. This morning, however, when the sun rose at 5:45am, out came the holystones and a proper seamanlike cleaning was done. Much better!

At the moment I am weaving my way through the Abrolhos (open your eyes!) reefs. Its a  maze of reefs and banks that stretches some 30 miles out to sea, and I am picking my way through it along the shore. I should continue to get more favorable wind and seas over the next few days, and I am looking forward to it.

3/25  8am  17.54S  39.14W    1568nm gone,  3843nm to go

I was expecting to be stuck until Sunday, but last night it looked like there would be a 12-hour lull between the waves of strong headwinds, so I decided to go. I departed last night and had a good run- for a while. Now I am paying the price, with some slow upwind work. This should only be for today, as both the farther north I get and the more time that passes will make conditions improve. And I am doing both so I can endure one slow day.

I am pleased to have the primary autopilot driving the boat again, which makes it more relaxing for me. So that’s my plan for today. Try to relax, pass the time and work my way north, with visions of fair winds and following seas not far off the horizon…

3/24  8am  19.22S  39.40W  1488nm gone,  3933nm to go

I had been hopeful the weather would let me continue, and I didn’t really make the call until I was 10 minutes from the harbor here, but I’m glad I stopped.

The winds got worse than forecast (25 in the harbor where I am anchored, 30’s outside), and even the local fishing fleet anchored near me, as it got too rough for them, too.

On the plus side, despite more frustration than I needed, I did fix the primary autopilot, with some local help. It was indeed the solenoid (I’m no genius, it was just the process of elimination), and with the rebuild kit I had we got it repaired, but not after spilling a lot of hydraulic fluid and then rolling around in it and using it as hair conditioner while trying to crawl into the nether regions of the boat.

The official process of entering Brazil, however, has not gone as smoothly. Actually, it hasn’t gone at all. They didn’t show up at the office when they said, then they didn’t come by the boat like they said they would. But I did complete paperwork at the marina office, so there is a record of me being here, and I think I should check in and out right, even though it is the part of cruising I like the least.

The weather likely won’t release me until Sunday or Monday anyway, so I guess tomorrow will be paperwork day.

At least it is sunny and very warm (high of 90 today).

3/22 7pm  anchored at 20.17S  40.17W   about 1400m gone,  4000nm to go.