Advanced Coastal Cruising

– Advanced Coastal Cruising class (ASA 106), June 22 – 24, 2012, by Brad Call

On Friday morning I met my instructor, Bill Yawn and my two fellow students, Mary Ann Paulazzo and Daniel Merle. Bill is a long time instructor at Tradewinds and he also serves in the Coast Guard Auxiliary. He mentioned that participation in the CG auxiliary comes with many beneficial free training opportunities. He was certainly a wealth of nautical information! Mary Ann Paulazzo and her husband Cliff own a nicely equipped cruising yacht named “Carola” (Young Sun 37). She and her husband hope to “dip their toe” into the cruising world this August with a trip down to the Channel Islands, a 3 week journey there and back. Daniel Merle and his wife own a Leopard 46 catamaran that they have placed in charter with Moorings in Mexico. Their boat is named “Balajan” which is “my little child in Armenian. One of the benefits of placing a boat in charter with Moorings is the ability to use other Moorings boats around the world. They recently took advantage of this benefit and took friends to sail off the Croatian coast.

After meeting each other, Bill had us haul our gear and food down to the boat for the checkout. For this class we were using the club’s Bavaria 42 named “My Density.” The name has an interesting origin that involves the owners meeting in a chemistry class during college. In any event, the Bavaria 42 is a very nice boat. It has a master suite with head forward. There are two aft cabins, a galley, head, and large dining area. The cockpit is quite spacious and it has dual helm stations. It is powered by a Volvo diesel with a sail drive instead of the typical drive shaft and propeller. For this class a large emergency raft occupied the after part of the cockpit.

We spent about 3 hours checking over the boat, filling the tank with fresh water, and stowing our gear. Bill briefed us on our itinerary and how he would conduct the class. Each student would spend one hour as helmsman, then crewperson, and finally as navigator. This rotation continued throughout the class. We were finally on our way out to sea a little after noon. The weather was unusually mild for this time of the year. During the week leading up to the course Bill had us checking on the weather, swells, and waves. It was clear from the forecasts that a low-pressure system would clear the area on Thursday, leaving calm conditions off the central California coast for the weekend. This in fact was what we experienced. The winds were light on Friday and coming from the southwest.

Bill’s plan was for us to travel from San Francisco to Half Moon Bay on Day 1. Day 2 would take us north, past the Farallon Islands and up to Drakes Bay. On Day 3 we would return home and take the test to finish up the class. The southwest wind direction was not optimum for our Day 1 course, so we motored out to R “8” in the Main Ship Channel and turned south. We set sail and tacked back and forth as we proceeded south. Occasionally we passed crab pot buoys and we kept a sharp lookout to avoid them. The visibility was exceptionally clear and we were able to see many San Francisco landmarks (Golden Gate Bridge Towers, TV tower, etc.) up to the point at which we turned southeast towards Half Moon Bay. Point San Pedro, Devils Slide, and Point Montara were all clearly visible. Bill mentioned the dangerous reefs between Point San Pedro and Pillar Point. I used my hand compass to practice taking bearings on prominent landmarks. There were many sea birds on the water as well as an occasional dolphin. We arrived at buoy RW “PP” off Half Moon Bay at around 6 pm and used the VHF radio to contact the Pillar Point Marina (channel 74) and request a slip for the night. The Harbor Master assigned us slip “H45.” We eventually paid about $36 for the slip and we prepared our dinner aboard. It was clear that we had brought a lot of food for the class and as a result we dined well throughout the trip. The Pillar Point Harbor is a busy commercial fishing port.

The next morning Bill had us awake and ready to depart Pillar Point Marina at 7 am. After passing buoy RW “PP”, we set course for the Farallon Islands (290 magnetic). The weather was exceptionally mild with light wind coming from the northwest. Once again the wind direction was not conducive to our plans, so we motored. As we proceeded northwestwards, we began to see whales about a mile to the west. They could be seen “blowing” as they came up for air and occasionally a tail could be seen. At around 9 am I suddenly saw two whales about 75 yards to port. Their large mottled gray backs seemed close enough to touch! Not wanting to provoke the whales we immediately adjusted course to the east and eventually turned back to our original course. That was our closest encounter with those majestic animals.

At 11:30 am we arrived at the Southeast Farallon Island, the site of the “Low Speed Chase” accident on April 14. It was sobering to see the area where 5 sailors had died during the race. It is a very remote and desolate island, the abode of seabirds and marine mammals. Many small fishing boats were visible, some taking sport fishermen out for the day.

After passing the Farallon Islands we turned to course 350 magnetic and arrived at Drakes Bay around 3 pm. We anchored 100 yards WNW from a Coast Guard mooring ball and discussed various nautical topics and rested until it was time for dinner. We also watched (and listened to) the Elephant Seals that were lying on the shore west of us. After eating we rested until dark, and then raised anchor to begin our night man-overboard drills. While recovering the anchor we discovered that the rode was fouled with kelp. The resulting “battle of the kelp” went on for about 30 minutes. The tenacious plant did not want to surrender its grip on the rode.

Once free of the kelp we motored out to the middle of Drakes Bay, set sail in the light breeze, and preceded to conduct our drills. We were unable to use our normal points of reference in the dark bay, so Bill advised us to trust the feeling of the breeze on our face to orient ourselves. This worked surprisingly well and soon we were all successfully executing the “figure 8” man-overboard recovery technique in total darkness. Towards the end of the drills our man overboard marker float came apart and we performed some rapid sail and motoring permutations to recover the remains from the water before losing it in the darkness. After completing the drills we motored back to our anchorage, deployed the anchor, and turned-in for the night. The stars were very vivid in the darkness, illuminated only by a waxing crescent Moon. However the clarity was such that we could see a faint glow coming from the San Francisco neighborhoods 25 miles away that lie along the Pacific coast. It was a very special feeling to experience this portion of the coast in good weather.

The next day we were once again up early, had our breakfast, and departed for San Francisco. Drakes Bay was very calm and tranquil in the cool clear morning air and I wish we could have lingered longer. But it was time to return to clean the boat and take our test. There was not a breath of wind, so once again we were forced to motor. We had a wonderful view of the Marin coastline as we proceeded south. Bill showed us how to use the radar and we could see many fishing boats and the occasional freighter in the area. There are dangerous reefs along this section of the coast, the Duxbury Reef lying off Bolinas being only one example. We entered the Bonita Channel at buoy G “1DR” and proceeded southeast following a series of buoys until we rounded Point Bonita, reentered the Main Ship Channel and headed east to the Golden Gate Bridge. We had a quick lunch while motoring back to Richmond Marina and arrived around 12 pm. After unloading our gear and cleaning the boat we took our exams. All three of us successfully passed the rather difficult exam. This brought to a close a very challenging but rewarding 3 days on the water. Bill is a very knowledgeable and supportive instructor and he helped all of us to get the most out of the experience and to become better and safer sailors. I highly recommend the class.

You will find information about trucking law in Baton Rouge and the people to turn to for legal advice on road accidents.

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Ambassador 111

Hallelujah!
I have arrived, without any incident or drama at the finish. Tied to the doc at 1pm.
The weather yesterday and last night was very cooperative, still some lumpy seas, but good winds, so I made good progress.
Everyone always seems to want statistics from a trip like this, so here’s the final numbers:

Ambassador – Beneteau 51.5,   Buenos Aires to San Francisco 2012
Facts about this voyage:

8,820         Nautical Miles sailed on this journey  (that’s 10,150 regular miles or 16,335 kilometers)
54              Number of Days underway
82              Degrees of latitude sailed
111            Degrees of longitude sailed (1/3 of the planet)
39             Number of days sailing in the tropics
6.80          Average speed in knots for entire voyage
100           Percent of days with sunshine
71             Ounces of bottled water I consumed on a daily average for cooking and drinking
2               Ounces of alcohol consumed during the entire voyage (rum with Neptune at the equator)
0               Number of days I wore foulies
13             Percentage of days sailing upwind
232           Most nautical miles sailed in a 24-hour period
94              Least nautical miles sailed in a 24-hour period
21             Number of countries whose waters I sailed in
3               Number of oceans I sailed in (South Atlantic, North Atlantic, North Pacific- plus Caribbean Sea)
1               Number of fresh water lakes I sailed in  (Gatun Lake in Panama- part of the canal)

-David Kory

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Ambassador 110 – Really Close

I’m getting close, and counting down the hours now, instead of days or weeks. If all goes well, I could arrive into Brickyard Cove tomorrow (Monday) evening. Maybe Monday afternoon, or maybe early Tuesday morning, but it is definitely close.

My good fortune seems to be holding, as I had a quick transit of the Southern California bight, enjoying the south and southwest winds and flat seas, and rounded Point Conception at midnight last night along with a school of dolphins. The gale had stopped blowing, so I have been continuing northwest up the coast, and am currently near Morro Bay.

The seas remain very large and sloppy as a result of the gales, with 9-foot swells and mixed windwaves, making for a very rocky and rolly ride. But its just rock and roll, and not slamming, so I am not complaining, and as the winds are just 10 knots, little by little conditions are improving.

The weather is clear and sunny, but last night was the coldest of the entire voyage so far, in the low 50’s. Brrr. But as I only expect one more night at sea, I guess I can deal with it.

My focus now is on finishing the remaining day and a half or so, or constantly hoping nothing breaks down at the last minute.

6/10   8am    35.10N   120.57W    8616nm gone,   187nm to go

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Ambassador 109 – Countdown

I’m getting close, and counting down the hours now, instead of days or weeks. If all goes well, I could arrive into Brickyard Cove tomorrow (Monday) evening. Maybe Monday afternoon, or maybe early Tuesday morning, but it is definitely close.

My good fortune seems to be holding, as I had a quick transit of the Southern California bight, enjoying the south and southwest winds and flat seas, and rounded Point Conception at midnight last night along with a school of dolphins. The gale had stopped blowing, so I have been continuing northwest up the coast, and am currently near Morro Bay.

The seas remain very large and sloppy as a result of the gales, with 9-foot swells and mixed windwaves, making for a very rocky and rolly ride. But its just rock and roll, and not slamming, so I am not complaining, and as the winds are just 10 knots, little by little conditions are improving.

The weather is clear and sunny, but last night was the coldest of the entire voyage so far, in the low 50’s. Brrr. But as I only expect one more night at sea, I guess I can deal with it.

My focus now is on finishing the remaining day and a half or so, or constantly hoping nothing breaks down at the last minute.

6/10   8am    35.10N   120.57W    8616nm gone,   187nm to go

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Ambassador 108 – So Cal Traffic

It wasn’t as bad as the freeways, but there sure were a lot of boats out last night between San Diego and Catalina Island. Tankers and freighters going in and out of the Port of Los Angeles, tugs towing barge trains, other sailboats, fishing boats, coast guard boats, a navy frigate and an aircraft carrier. And those are just the ones I had to cross. Not a very restful night…

As you’ve guessed by now, I crossed into the United States yesterday evening, after latching onto that low pressure system I mentioned and making great time. It gave me S – SW winds (behind me, yay!) and flat seas, so I averaged 7.5 knots for the whole day, covering 181 miles- much better than expected. I passed very close to Avalon on Catalina Island early this morning, and it was difficult not to stop. I lived in Avalon once, and still love the place. But the weather says “Go!”, so that’s what I’m doing.

There has been a NW gale blowing off the central coast for the last few days, which would make huge winds and seas on my nose and not letting me go, but it is supposed to be done by tonight, take a few days off, then return on Wednesday. So that’s why I am going straight through, to sneak north during its days off. I will still have some winds against me at times, but it shouldn’t be more than 10 or 15 knots, which I can deal with. And the swells will likely be big, maybe 11-15 feet, but if the wind isn’t bad, its just like driving through the foothills, nice and gentle. We’ll see.

Hopefully there will be no bad surprises, I will continue making progress, and will arrive into Brickyard Cove on Tuesday.

6/9   8am   33.30N   118.32W    8449nm gone,  349nm to go

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Ambassador 107 – So Cal Quiet

I’ve made it to the quiet zone, which is how I think of Southern California weather. Calm water, light winds, easy progress. Although I am still some 80 miles from the border, these are the conditions I am getting, and I am entirely happy with that.

The coastline down this way is like a big “J”, with Cedros island being the bottom tip of the J, and San Diego the top. I was happy to cross from Cedros over the mainland part of the J, as it meant I was far from land, hazards, shipping and most anything else, which meant I was finally able to get some decent rest.

I enjoyed few more dolphin visits, and a few late whales heading north, and some really spectacular jelly fish. The crowns were about 2 feet across, puffy and orange like a cloud, with 6 feet of thick fuzzy orange stringers hanging down. Beautiful to look at, but I wouldn’t want to swim into it.

I go in and out of adverse current, and had a few hours of big round 6-8 foot swells (from weather far, far away), making things a bit rolly, but on average making good progress. If all continues going well I should cross the border tonight, and take advantage of a small low pressure sitting just south of San Clemente island. This will generate light counter-clockwise winds through the whole Southern California region, which is perfect for me, as I will make a big counter-clockwise arc from San Diego to Point Conception. I may continue to get lucky, with light west winds to take me up the coast from there for a day or two, and could arrive into San Francisco Bay sometime on Tuesday. We’ll see…

6/8   8am   31.05N   116.38W    8268nm gone,   517nm to go

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Ambassador 106 – Balance or jinx?

So after commenting yesterday morning about how the previous day’s conditions were better than forecast, yesterday afternoon brought balance. Or maybe I jinxed it by saying something. But the afternoon brought a few hours of 30 knots headwinds, gusting to 38, which was not at all in the forecast. Fortunately the sea state didn’t get too crazy, so I did fine with a scrap of sail up and some tacking along the shore.

It seems the water is colder than normal this year, as the kelp forests are flourishing. I know this coast well, and places where I haven’t seen kelp before now have a 1/2 mile carpet reaching to the surface. I’m glad I passed by during daylight, and was able to see the extent of it. Once it got dark, I didn’t dare approach the coastlines too closely, although it did get dark about 30 minutes before I got through the Dewey Channel, a narrow collection of rocks and islands just below Cedros island.

It is one of those places where the wind blows 25 knots from the NW until you get through it, then it suddenly switches to 12 knots from the East, then maybe some West once in a while, too, all because of the effects of Cedros island. And the currents swirl around at a couple knots, too, as all the northwest flow squeezes through the channel and around the islands.

After sunset, with a crystal clear sky, I was awed yet again by the vast carpet of billions (I stopped counting at 800 million) of stars in the sky. I have seen it countless times, and still enjoy it. And after 2 hours of that, a nearly full moon rose to light my path for the rest of the night, into kindly moderate conditions. I am still hoping to cross the border into the U.S. on Saturday morning, and the weather seems to suggest going while the going is good, maybe all the way to SF Bay by Tuesday night or Wednesday morning.

6/7   8am    28.56N   115.07W    8109nm gone,   677nm to go

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Ambassador 105 – Good Wrong

My good fortune continues, as yesterday’s forecast of very windy and bumpy was mostly wrong. It was nice to have the forecast be wrong in my favor for a change. Most of the day I enjoyed 12-18 knots of wind, at an angle I could actually use, which was an unexpected treat. It did finally blow 20-25 for a few hours in the evening, with lumpy seas to go with it, but I never saw the forecast 25-30 knots, so I was able to keep moving throughout the day and night, and didn’t need to anchor and hide along the way.

I had an unusual visitor aboard in the evening. I was on the foredeck adjusting a jib car during the hour of darkness between sunset and moonrise, when I noticed a small spot on the deck, which I figured was a squid. I turned my flashlight on it, and was surprised to discover a small baby lobster!  It was only about 2 inches long, but was snapping his little claws and flicking his tail in frustration, so I tossed him back in. I guess he was swimming near the surface when a wave splashed him aboard.

I can’t resist looking ahead, to see what weather might greet me on the rest of the voyage, as with just 800 miles to go, it could be less than a week. At the moment, it is blowing 35 knots down the coast from Monterey to Point Conception, which is a no go for me, but that is supposed to stop by Sunday evening, followed by a few days of reasonable wind. So maybe, ideally, I will pass Turtle Bay late this afternoon, cross the border early Saturday morning, make it to Point Conception Sunday night, and then continue north, maybe arriving San Francisco Tuesday night or Wednesday morning. There are still plenty of miles to go, but that is my first loose possible estimate,which would suit me just fine.

6/6  8am   27.04N   114.18W    7973nm gone   802nm to go

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Ambassador 104 – A little of everything

Yesterday certainly had variety. I was visited by dolphins, Dahl’s porpoises, and sea lions. I had windy and bumpy on the nose, windy beam reach, and no wind. I had sunshine, cloudy bits, a clear sky with full moon, and at sunrise I got fog for a while.

At about 11pm last night, I was also visited by the Mexican Navy. One of their little patrol boats started following me, and hailed me on the radio to ask who I was, how many crew, where I had been and where I was going. They were very friendly as always, and wished me good night and good voyage. The whole thing took less than 10 minutes. A bit different than a U.S. Coast Guard visit, which usually involves them boarding and inspecting, and is somewhat more intimidating.

Anyway, I continue making some progress, with today and tomorrow windy and maybe bumpy at times, but Thursday and Friday look light. If all goes well I should cross the border into the U.S. sometime this weekend. Less than 1000 miles to go!

6/5   8am     25.41N  112.38W    7840nm gone,  924nm to go

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Ambassador 103 – On the road again

I thoroughly enjoyed my 2 week break back home, and have now returned to Mexico to try to finish my long voyage to San Francisco. I arrived into Los Cabos yesterday afternoon, and departed right away, as there were lighter winds forecast for a day or two.

So far so good, although not as light as forecast, but I am making progress up the Baja peninsula, and hope to be at Santa Maria, just north of Magdalena Bay, late tonight. I will be fighting a 1-knot current most of the way up the coast, so speeds get notched down a bit, and everything takes a little longer now. Tuesday afternoon is looking pretty breezy and bumpy, but I may be OK staying close to shore. We’ll see how it goes and how I feel, and if things get too ugly I’ll anchor and wait it out.

One benefit of taking that break is that I missed the new moon, and enjoyed a nearly full moon last night. Despite the sunny days, the weather is cooler now as I am getting north, into the low 70’s at night, and I officially crossed the tropic of Cancer today, so I am no longer in the tropics…

6/4   8am     24.00N   111.06W    7701nm gone   1057nm to go

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