Tradewinds Sailing Blog

I’ve learned a few basic rules about cruising British Columbia’s Inland Passage since beginning this cruise. Most important, you will not be disappointed if you expect gray, rainy and cold weather. The weather, at least this early in the cruising season, is like San Francisco Bay in the winter – not much wind but cold. Another problem up here is that the wind seems to always blow down the channels formed by the islands.

Anchoring can also be a problem because the sea bed drops off abruptly along the shores. That said, the first night out from Campbell River we anchored in Billy Goat Bay (a tiny cove). It is a truly idyllic spot with room for only one boat.

 Billy Goat Bay at Helmcken Island

The next day we moved on to the Salmon Coast Field Station. Ivan, the skipper, has a long history with this research facility, he worked on battery for fish finder systems and contributed well to the effort. There was no question that we were welcome to use their dock. The Field Station is located at the head of Echo Bay on Gilford Island.

Kittewake docked in Echo Bay

Salmon Coast Field Station

The main focus of their research has been the investigation of the effect of sea lice on wild salmon. The sea lice are the result of salmon farming which is extensive up here. Wild salmon fry (baby salmon) die if infected with the lice. The fear is that the wild salmon in this area are going to become extinct due to this.

That night we had dinner with the people at the Field Station and exchanged stories including lots about brown bears.

This morning we left the Salmon Coast Field Station. As in the past, we were head-to-wind in the narrow channels, but things changed when we entered Queen Charlotte Straight. We were able to sail across the Strait, but had to use the engine again to make it through the channel to Port McNeill.

The best part about the sailing and motoring to Port McNeill was the glorious sun. This is the first time we have had full sun for any appreciable length of time.

We’ll spend two nights at Port McNeill because the depth sounder failed. It takes a long time to get replacement parts here and anyway it would require hauling the boat and some major work. Plan B is to install a stand-alone depth/fish finder. Ivan bought that today and all that remains is to build a mount for the sensor. We’ll do that tomorrow and on Saturday start heading to Bella Bella from which I will fly home on May 12. Ivan is continuing to Glacier Bay Alaska.

The route from Port McNeill to Bella Bella is the only stretch where we will be exposed to the open ocean. The crux is rounding Cape Caution. We have more than enough time to wait out bad weather but if we don’t have to do that then we can finish off this leg with short days and stopping at more places.

So far we have traveled 265 nm. By the shortest route we have 120 nm remaining but anchorages will take us off that route.

Cheers.

Marcus Libkind

After two days of motoring from Blaine, WA toward Bella Bella, BC we had an exhilarating day of sailing today from Comox to Campbell River (the name of a city).

We left the marina in Comox in absolutely glassy conditions well aware that the forecast was for gale force winds in the Strait of Georgia. Ivan (E’von) Getting’s J/42 draws 7-1/2 feet so our first obstacle was crossing the shallows between Denman Island and the peninsula of Comox; low water is only 6.5 feet here.

All went well and beyond the shallows we entered the Strait of Georgia and headed northwest to Discovery Passage and Campbell River. By the time we were in the Strait it was blowing 18 kts and it continued to build to 25 kts as we sailed. The winds were out of the southeast so we were on a dead-run the entire way. It’s approximately 35 miles from Comox to Campbell River. It took us 5 hours.

Kittewake performed great in 20 plus kts of wind and 4-foot seas. For most of the distance we were averaging 8 kts with peak speeds of more than 10 kts. It was an outstanding sail. Oh, I should mention that we were sailing with only the jib. This boat is fast.

Ivan assumed 5 kts when planning this leg. Our higher speed meant that we were nearing the southeast entrance to Discovery Passage ahead of schedule. All we could see looking ahead toward the Passage was white. The turbulence at this point was caused by flooding to the southeast combined with the wind from the southeast.

It was a wild ride through the turbulence with waves now of 6 feet and a short period because they are wind generated. Once through the entrance area the seas calmed, but it started to rain. But as a person living in the northwest would say, “it could be raining harder.”

We’re now secure in a marina at Campbell River. The city is not much different than my home in Livermore, but one nice thing here is that there is a very large shopping center 100 feet from the marina. Tonight we’ll probably go to Joey’s for their special; it’s fish and chips for $6.95.

This is my third cruise that I have done with skippers who I have found on the internet. Clara, my wife says, it’s like a blind date. There is one difference; you can’t go say good-bye and go home if you find the dinner table conversation not to your liking.

On the positive side, you can do a lot of cruising for little money since all you pay is transportation and your share of food, fuel and marina fees. I’ve already signed up for two more cruises through September.

I have offered to do a seminar at the club in July in which I will explain the ins-and-outs of crewing for others. Look for it if you are interested in this kind of sailing. There are opportunities all over the world.

My next internet access will be in about 4 days when we reach Port McNeil. In the meantime here are two photos. One is glassy waters between Nanaimo and Comox. The other is the southeast entrance into Discovery Passage. What a difference a day can make.

Cheers.

Marcus

Motoring from Nanaimo to Comox

Rough seas at southeast end of Discovery Passage